The Roof of Indochina

An easy 20-minute cable car ride versus an arduous two-day trek to Mt. Fansipan I was wiping the sweat off my brow, scanning the jungle canopy we had just broken through, when the old Australian took his first fall. Seventy-two-year-old Will missed his footing and the pull of his backpack threatened to send him crashing … Read more

Meet Sapa’s Ultimate Guide, Mama Zu

A few dozen groggy tourists shuffle off the sleeper train and board a transfer bus to Sapa, one of Vietnam’s top destinations. Inaudible slurs on the bus develop into excited chatter as they beam at guidebook photographs of terraced rice paddies swirling around lush green hills, a trademark image of the country’s north. Seconds after … Read more

A Dyeing Art

The making of H’mong batik Up in the misty mountains of the Lao Cai district in northern Vietnam, H’mong women in the Sapa area have perfected a technique for making deep, rich, blue hemp textiles decorated with intricate designs. These fabrics have been produced for generations and the first time you see them, they are fascinating for … Read more

Surprising Sapa

Around every corner is something that you have never seen or maybe never experienced before. To visit Sapa or the surrounding districts is to step into another world. Sometimes, it doesn’t even feel like you are still in Vietnam. Elevated, ethereal, energizing, exotic, Sapa took me by surprise. I imagined some kind of French style, … Read more